<p>I have a 3D printer built from generic, scrap parts.
It's controlled by a 2+ years old <code>MKS GEN L</code> board running Marlin version <code>1.1.x</code>.</p>
<p>I want to do a complete bed assembly replacement, including:</p>
<ul>
<li>Heated bed</li>
<li>Thermistor</li>
<li>Y-carriage</li>
</ul>
<p>All the hardware bits, including the z-endstop are sorted and ready to be installed.</p>
<p><strong>My question is:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Once I replace the assembly, what kind of software / firmware modifications do I need to do to Marlin configuration for my printer to work correctly?</li>
</ul>
<p>I understand that I need to modify dimensions and offsets but I am unsure what else will I need to change within the codebase before flashing Marlin.</p>

The surface won't work
The only true-metallic surface treatments I know to be actual metal in large enough amounts to conduct electricity would be leafmetal, akin to leaf gold, and electroplating. However, you can't use the procedures for stainless steels, and even then, the thickness is in the tenth of a µm area and lower. Not only would that be far too thin to adhere a magnet to, it also would be super easy to damage with rubbing.
Filling?
PLA itself does not block magnetism - I have printed a PLA holder for a magnetic GPS device, into which I inserted a simple 0.5 mm steel plate for a magnetic surface with 0.5 mm of PLA acting as the container and seal against water.
If the prints can be done with one end open and no infill or have a dedicated area that a cheap piece of steel can be inserted into, this method can be used too. The only requirement is that there is a cavity on the inside that at some point is accessible. This also can be during the print.
This cavity could either take a piece of shaped steel sheet or be filled with a different magnetic filler, for example, simple iron powder. The powder could be bound in a non-oxidizing polymer, for example, epoxy resin. This method has been used to
create cast stators for electro motors
. It's
not the most efficient
, but might work in your application - if your walls are thin enough.
With the correct mixture, such a material can be used to coat or fill the inside with enough magnetic material to give the magnets something to stick to and not rust away - the shell and the resin together would shield the iron from any air that could rust it. Indeed, a quite stuffed Resin-Iron-mix and a strong magnet have been
used in 2012 to create furniture by the name of "Gravity Stools"
or other art pieces like in
this video